Many of the looks being shown for Cruise/Resort confirm our Foragers Trend Tale for Spring 19. There are all sorts of country-fresh separates and dresses cut from humble dishtowel checks, simple stripes, crinkled plaids and homespun patchworks. Raw or self-fringed edges add to the unfettered feel, as do string-ties and flounced hemlines — most hitting an inch or two above the ankle.
Last fall was all about blue velvet, but for next season the plush, lustrous fabric warms up in sumptuous shades of peach, berry, deep ochre, lush olive and creamy ecru. The velvet itself can be woven or knit, smooth or crushed. Day-glo drawstrings or contrast piping give head-to-toe velvet ensembles a sporty edge.
PROPHESY/PROOF: Sometimes an influence continues to evolve for several seasons. Such is the case with the Victorian looks coming down the runways, a look identified in our Spring 18 Trend Tale called Antiqk. High necklines, delicate ruffles, floral upholstery fabrics and black ribbon ties still look right. Newness arrives in the form of spider-webby crochet insets and romanticized running suits where lace appliqués take the place of active stripes.
Bora Aksu London Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-2019 London February 2018Brock New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018Zimmermann New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018antiqk inspirationSelf Portrait New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018Naeem Khan New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-2019 NYC February 2018
Fur trim is no longer just for outerwear. As seen in the current Norman Norell exhibit at The Museum at FIT, the plush detail adds a sense of luxury to suits, blazers, sweaters and woven tops. The fur can be real or faux and is seen in natural tones or dyed pastels. Extra-deep fur cuffs look new, but designers also use it to encircle a pullover’s entire forearm or apply it in sections along the sleeve.
INSPIRATIONS: The Museum at FIT Norell: Dean of American Fashion Special Exhibitions Gallery February 9, 2018 – April 14, 2018 (LEFT) Oatmeal wool fur-trimmed suit, 1967. (RIGHT) Red and black checked fur-trimmed suit, 1962
In the 1938 film Jezebel, Bette Davis’ rebellious southern belle character chooses to wear a red dress to the ball. Even in the film’s black-and-white, the rich gray created by the gown’s scarlet satin stands out against the sea of virginal white confections, and manages to shock polite society as well as alienate our heroine’s handsome fiance (played by Henry Fonda). All that to say there is power in the red dress, especially the ones on this season’s New York runways. While classic Hollywood may have provided inspiration for the plunging V’s and midi-lengths, the new fiery frocks are shiny, sumptuous and slithery, with asymmetric necklines or button-and-loop openings that give the dresses the feel of being caught in a moment of dishabille.
In the 1938 film Jezebel, Bette Davis’ rebellious southern belle character chooses to wear a red dress to the ball. Even in the film’s black-and-white, the rich gray created by the gown’s scarlet satin stands out against the sea of virginal white confections, and manages to shock polite society as well as alienate our heroine’s handsome fiance (played by Henry Fonda). All that to say there is power in the red dress, especially the ones on this season’s New York runways. While classic Hollywood may have provided inspiration for the plunging V’s and midi-lengths, the new fiery frocks are shiny, sumptuous and slithery, with asymmetric necklines or button-and-loop openings that give the dresses the feel of being caught in a moment of dishabille.
Wicker or straw basket bags are popping up on the runways in New York, and are seen carried by trendsetters on the street as well. Most are hard and structured with a top-handle, but softer versions work as belt-bags and totes. Natural leathers or ropes provide accents, and colors are usually natural or white. Embroideries provide more whimsy or wit. While the rustic straws provide contrast with tailored styles, the preferred ensemble includes a soft floral-printed frock, for a romantic Marie-Antoinette-on-the-farm look.
This summer’s ubiquitous off-shoulder neckline goes clean and flounce-free. New York designers showed these as knits and wovens, tops or dresses, including a sheer illusion version for evening.