The trend toward wearing mismatched earrings (which started several seasons ago on the Celine runway, among others) is gaining momentum. Designers showed disparate earrings with a common theme — like big pearls in contrasting settings or two different leaf shapes — or combined individual styles almost randomly for interesting juxtapositions.
Nothing says fall like the plush ridges of corduroy. The sturdy fabric conjures back-to-school season, especially in autumnal shades like olive, rust, tobacco and pumpkin. The newest cords are wide-wale, super supple and velvety soft. Use for cozy coats, tailored suits, demure dresses and classic corduroy trousers — with or without high waists cinched by self-belts.
Intarsia sweaters have long moved past sentimental holiday signifiers and pretend folklorists. The newest designs are big and bold, often showing off a craftiness that includes trailing threads or “reverse side” effects. Some sweaters mix intarsia with knitted appliqués or yarn embroideries, adding dimension to placed motifs.
The movement towards comfy lingerie inspires all sorts of knitted bras, both as “built-in” details and stand-alone items. The tromp l’oeil versions include anatomically correct stitchery or strategically placed argyle diamonds. The season’s all-important crochet turns up as a hippie-ish bralette to layer over sweaters, and there are crochet or fully-fashioned knitted bras meant to seen under sheer tops or tulle dresses.
The giant carryall is giving way to the bite-sized bag. In contrast to all the colossal coats, roomy sack dresses, stretched-out sweaters and rave-wide pants shown for next season, these diminutive satchels and tiny totes offer a sense of scale. Many have long straps so that they can be worn cross-body, and they are often styled with another larger bag — perhaps as a going-out-after-work option when a heavy handbag is too great a burden to bear.
Flat quilting, the kind usually used for industrial protection, gets an elegant turn for fall. There are diamond quilted jackets, circle skirts that borrow from bedspreads, and skirts that mimic moving blankets. While the thought of extra padding for apparel may make some cringe, lightweight constructions and clever cuts make these pieces wearable and desirable.
There’s a new matchy-matchy combo this season — pants layered with a matching skirt. The skirts can be long and graceful for Contemporary customers or short and sassy for Juniors. Many of the skirts tie-on apron-style, but some are created with built-in panels. Perhaps the look got its start with all the dress-over-pants layering seen on the streets — and emerging on runways as well.
In troubled times we need our blankeys. Luckily cozy wraps uptrend for next fall, whether it’s a big plaid throw worn shawl-style, or versions cut as ponchos, ruanas or capes. Jacquard wovens ensure that both sides are worth showing, and fringed or bound edges add to the authentic blanket feel.
Last fall was all about blue velvet, but for next season the plush, lustrous fabric warms up in sumptuous shades of peach, berry, deep ochre, lush olive and creamy ecru. The velvet itself can be woven or knit, smooth or crushed. Day-glo drawstrings or contrast piping give head-to-toe velvet ensembles a sporty edge.
Pen and ink is having a moment. Black lines against a white ground inform prints, embroideries and intarsias; motifs suggest astrological diagrams, toiles, Aubrey Beardsley curlicues or vintage illustrations. Dior even used a model drawing with ink and brush for their Spring 18 campaign, emphasizing the timeless sensuality of the hand-drawn line.
