THE COMMUNIQUÉ FASHION REPORT: CRAZY LAYERING

Everything goes with everything now, signaling a new freedom of expression. As Aaron Potts, winner of the All Gender Product Award at last year’s Rising Star event explained: “The expectations of traditional gender expression are so confining for some people. I hope to offer something that allows people to exhale, to go deeper and to embrace every part of themselves…”. Other designers, including Marissa Wilson, Harlem’s Fashion Row and Imitation of Christ, also offer freeform layering, a mad mix of active, lingerie, grunge plaid and craft ponchos. Individualism is the goal — it’s up to the wearer to create the magic.

 

THE FGI COMMUNIQUÉ FASHION REPORT IS AN EXCLUSIVE NYFW REPORT CAPTURING AND HIGHLIGHTING INFLUENCES, DIRECTIONAL. AND SIGNIFICANT STYLE, COLOR AND FASHION THREADS, FEATURING NEW TALENT AND MORE…

Created By:

SHARON GRAUBARD – FOUNDER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF MINTMODA & FGI EXECUTIVE MEMBER

NICOLE FISCHELIS – FASHION/ART FORECASTING & FGI BOARD MEMBER

Click here for more at FGI.org

Imitation of Christ, SS22, NYFW
Marissa Wilson, SS22, NYFW
Aaron Potts, SS22, NYFW
Ulla Johnson, SS22, NYFW
Harlem’s Fashion Row, SS22, NYFW

STRING THEORY

Crochet, which started edging its way in a year ago, is in full expression on New York runways this week. Crochet, pointelle and other openwork stitcheries are used for midi-dresses, pullovers and bodysuits, bringing texture and interest to basic silhouettes. Deep flounces, scallop edges, and little beads add more post-hippie chic to this crafty technique.

Ulla Johnson Spring Summer 2019
Rodarte Spring Summer 2019
Pyer Moss
Spring
Summer 2019 NY
Ulla Johnson Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019
Prabal Gurung
Spring Summer 2019
Carolina Herrera
Spring Summer 2019

CORDUROY SEASON

Nothing says fall like the plush ridges of corduroy. The sturdy fabric conjures back-to-school season, especially in autumnal shades like olive, rust, tobacco and pumpkin. The newest cords are wide-wale, super supple and velvety soft. Use for cozy coats, tailored suits, demure dresses and classic corduroy trousers — with or without high waists cinched by self-belts.

CSM Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Jour Ne Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Lucio Vanotti Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Ulla Johnson Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Paul and Joe Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Erdem Fall/Winter RTW 2018

I HEART TEXTURE

 

Textured sweaters are all the rage on the New York runways, and look especially fetching in candy-heart shades like coral, cotton candy pink and Valentine red. There are creative cables, high stand necklines, rough topstitches and fat rosettes adding extra interest to cozy pullovers. Novelty sleeves continue to gain momentum and distressed details (like placed runs) keep all the sweet colors from getting too precious.

Hellessy Fall RTW 18
Ulla Johnson Fall RTW 18
Prabal Gurung Fall RTW 18
Alejandra Alonso Rojas Fall RTW 18
Pyer Moss Fall RTW 18
Son Jung Wan Fall RTW 18

GOOD EGG

 

Egg yolk yellow is emerging as THE color of Fall 2018. The RTW runways (and audience members) radiate with variations of gold, honey, ochre and mustard. The hue works well for accent pieces, as type or a graphic on a sweatshirt, or styled as head-to-toe monochrome ensembles. Crushed velvets, varnished vinyls, plush sweater knits, and layered sheers add depth and dimension to this vibrant shade.

Bottega Veneta New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Milly New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018

Bottega Veneta New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Ulla Johnson New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018

LUXE LOUNGE

Elevated PJ sets are all over NYFW, whether in shining satins, soft velvets, or rich silk jacquards and moires.  Mineral tones like burnt vermilion, raw sienna, malachite green and quartz pink emphasize the luxe feel.  A slouchy silhouette, tailored stripes, tweedy coats and hands-in-pockets attitude keep these louche sets looking chic on the streets.

NEW YORK, NY – FEBRUARY 9: Jason Wu Fall Winter 2018-19 Collection. (Photo by Helle Moos/MCV Photo For The Washington Post)
Adeam New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Bottega Veneta New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Hellessy New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Bottega Veneta New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Hellessy New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018

BASKET CASE

 

Wicker or straw basket bags are popping up on the runways in New York, and are seen carried by trendsetters on the street as well. Most are hard and structured with a top-handle, but softer versions work as belt-bags and totes. Natural leathers or ropes provide accents, and colors are usually natural or white. Embroideries provide more whimsy or wit. While the rustic straws provide contrast with tailored styles, the preferred ensemble includes a soft floral-printed frock, for a romantic Marie-Antoinette-on-the-farm look.

BIB LOVE

 

Of all the wondrous pieces on display at the recent Georgia O’Keeffe: Living Modern show at the Brooklyn Museum, amid the delicate hand-sewn blouses, freshly pressed wrap-dresses and austere Balenciaga coats, the item that seemed to capture the imagination most was an oft-mended denim apron, quietly folded in a display case. The apron seemed to conjure everything we admire about O’Keeffe — her self-sufficiency, her artisanship, her affection for the forthright and plain, and her innate elegance. That fascination was reflected in several New York collections, whether as true workwear styles in railroad denim or coated canvas, or in the myriad bib fronts, pinafore straps, tie waists and long layers.