ATH-OFFICE

Careerwear evolves yet again, as casual Fridays meet ath-leisure for a new category known as “Ath-Office” or “Work-Leisure”. An outgrowth of pandemic comfort dressing and the ubiquity of activewear on streets, the new look combines athletic classics like hoodies with more tailored items like blazers — styled as ensembles or morphed into a single hybrid garment. Luxe fabrics, including satins and lamés, mix with performance meshes, wicking knits and stretch jerseys, all cut into polished versions of activewear silhouettes. Shiny blacks and saturated tones like fuschia, deep turquoise and amber browns add more visual punch.

Emerging Talents, Spring-Summer 2022, Milan
Valentino, Spring-Summer 2022, Paris
Tom Ford, Spring-Summer 2022, New York
KNT Men, Spring-Summer 2022, Milan
Concept Korea Spring-Summer 2022, New York
Max Mara, Spring-Summer 2022, Milan

MINI MANIA

 

After seasons of 70s Bohemians, fashion skips back a decade with 60s Mod mania, complete with structured shapes, happy colors and plenty of minis. Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior believes the look encapsulates what young customers are looking for right now: “Something graphic and clean, minimal and positive. Because I think we have to give an optimistic outlook to the future.”  The look evolves for next spring with nearly neon hues, eye-catching placed motifs and graphic cutouts, whether a squared-off neckline or triangular openings at midriff or sides. Items include sleeveless or halter-neck shifts and bright A-line miniskirts. Get ready for a new “youthquake”.

Christian Dior, Spring-Summer 2022, Paris
Maryling, Spring-Summer 2022, Milan
Emilio Pucci, Spring-Summer 2022, Milan
Courreges, Spring-Summer 2022, Paris
Ports 1961, Spring-Summer 2022, Milan
Valentino, Spring-Summer 2022, Paris

BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY

A free-flowing bohemian spirit wafted through last night’s socially-distanced Oscars. While there was plenty of long-missed Hollywood glamour, the newest looks had a relatable hippie-goddess quality. Alluring elements included bare midriffs, bra tops, fluid lounge sets, floral boho gowns and plunging V-necks, accented by long loose hair or summer-festival braids. Layered necklaces, shoulder-dusting earrings, granny glasses and bright white sneakers kept the mood celebratory yet laid-back, underscoring the current movement toward ease and comfort.

Zendaya in Valentino Haute Couture and Bulgari jewelry
Chloe Zhao in Hermes and trainers
Emerald Fennell in Gucci
H.E.R. in Dundas and Chopard jewelry
Andra Day In Vera Wang with Tiffany jewelry and Casadei shoes
Garrett Bradley in Alexandre Vauthier

HANDS-FREE GETS HANDSOME

The trend toward smaller bags and little pouches impacts menswear for next spring. Runways (and NYC streets) feature men wearing fanny packs holster-style, as well as appealing neck-wallets that are a sleek take on the frumpy travelers’ favorite. Look out for contoured shapes that encircle the waist, menswear fabrics, fluo touches, ombré finishes and contrast zips. Many of the smallest bags attach with a clip for extra versatility.

Junya Watanabe Menswear SS 2019
MSGM Menswear SS 2019
Hermes Menswear SS 2019
Off White Menswear SS 2019
Valentino Menswear SS 2019
Sunnei Menswear SS 2019

A BIT OF STRUCTURE

In a movement away from all the big and slouchy carryalls or teeny-tiny “necklace bags”, the small and structured bag is looking just right. Big enough to make a statement and petite enough to go from day to dinner, the neat bag will bring a polished note to everything from wear-it-to-work looks to casual dresses and jeans. Many have dual handles — one short and one for shoulder or cross-body — making these perfectly-proportioned handbags even more versatile. Ornamental closures and surface decorations add more interest.

Fendi Resort 2019
Valentino Resort 2019
No. 21 Resort 2019
See by Chloe
Rochas Resort 2019
Rag and Bone Resort 2019

A BIT OF STRUCTURE

In a movement away from all the big and slouchy carryalls or teeny-tiny “necklace bags”, the small and structured bag is looking just right. Big enough to make a statement and petite enough to go from day to dinner, the neat bag will bring a polished note to everything from wear-it-to-work looks to casual dresses and jeans. Many have dual handles — one short and one for shoulder or cross-body — making these perfectly-proportioned handbags even more versatile. Ornamental closures and surface decorations add more interest.

Fendi Resort 2019
Valentino Resort 2019
No. 21 Resort 2019
See by Chloe
Rochas Resort 2019
Rag and Bone Resort 2019

NECKING PARTY

Scarves are the new “it” accessory. For resort there are all sorts of desirable neckwear items, from extra-long fringe-tipped sashes to narrow cravats and classic silk squares. Designers even styled with multiple scarves, as in a printed headwrap shown with a coordinating (but not matching) neckerchief. Most are silky but there are also alternatives, like a knitted sash or velvet bow choker with trailing ribbons.

Missoni Resort 2019
Hellessy Resort 2019
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Resort 2019
Erdem Resort 2019
Valentino Resort 2019
Chanel Resort 2019

THE HARD STUFF

 

Bags for Cruise/Resort 19 update with all kinds of fresh hardware applications. There are heavy chains in brass or matte black, carabiner hooks, metal zips and pyramid studs. A round link is looped through a heavy silver grommet for the season’s all-important belt bag. Convertible handles are key for all silhouettes, from neat shoulder-bags to sleek backpacks. Jacquarded logo tapes work as zipper pulls, adding an industrial feel. For a more luxurious take, there are ornate brass medallions or a heavy brass bar closure.

DSquared Resort 19
Givenchy Resort 19
Givenchy Resort 19
Valentino Resort 19
Valentino Resort 19
Roberto Cavalli Resort 19

FALL INTO SPRING

The collections may be for Fall-Winter 18, but all the florals say springtime. The runways are awash in splashy flower motifs of all kinds — watercolors, warp-prints, inky line drawings, silhouettes and appliqués. Gorgeous, giant blossoms adorn dresses, skirts, hooded cloaks, printed velvet tights, and even enliven a classic peacoat for men.

Manish Arora Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Richard Quinn Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Miu Miu Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Valentino Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Tanya Taylor Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Libertine Fall/Winter RTW 2018

FALL INTO SPRING

The collections may be for Fall-Winter 18, but all the florals say springtime. The runways are awash in splashy flower motifs of all kinds — watercolors, warp-prints, inky line drawings, silhouettes and appliqués. Gorgeous, giant blossoms adorn dresses, skirts, hooded cloaks, printed velvet tights, and even enliven a classic peacoat for men.

Manish Arora Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Richard Quinn Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Miu Miu Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Valentino Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Tanya Taylor Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Libertine Fall/Winter RTW 2018